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Clachtoll, Sutherland (Credit: Airborne Lens)
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Stories of Sutherland

DISCOVER SUTHERLAND THROUGH STORIES

The Highlands and Islands have been shaped by thousands of years of stories. Whether they are grounded in joy and celebration, mystery and legend or sorrow and tragedy, hearing the stories of our communities, their traditions and the period they lived in can help shape us as individuals and connect us to the past. With its outstanding natural and cultural heritage and where there are stories in every breath, Sutherland, in the North West Highlands, is the perfect place to experience this. In this multi-day, self-guided itinerary discover a selection of the places which have been at the heart of hundreds of stories, both past and present.

This itinerary contains audio from a series of interviews conducted in 2022 by Smartify as part of the Spirit of the Highlands and Islands project. Listen and discover the Spirit of the Highlands and Islands through the eyes of the people who live, work and visit here.

On your journey, be responsible and respectful of local communities and wildlife and follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.

A light green-earthy brown landscape lines a body of still blue water. The jagged outlines of three mountains can be seen in the background under a cloudy sky. Lochinver and Ardvrek, Sutherland
Image provided by Airborne Lens

LOCHINVER

Start your journey in Lochinver (Scottish Gaelic: Loch an Inbhir). Surrounded by mountains, waterfalls, lochs and beaches, this lively coastal village on the south-west coast of Sutherland is a firm favourite of many. It's not hard to see why - as part of the incredible UNESCO North West Highlands Geopark Lochinver is a great place to recharge your batteries in a hub of community activity and beautiful natural surroundings.

In this recording, join Sara Bain as she shares her love for Lochinver, Suilven and North West Sutherland.

...there's just something really peaceful and beautiful about it, but savage...

ASSYNT

Continue your journey into the south-western reaches of Sutherland with a visit to Assynt (Scottish Gaelic: Asainn). The natural and cultural heritage of this area can be described as no less than immense, with thousands of years of stories beneath the distinctive mountainscapes. At the viewpoint, be awe-inspired by views like no other, and at the same time, discover the curious legacy of the Vikings in Assynt.

In this recording, listen here to Katey Boal as she describes what draws her to the stunning landscape of Assynt, in the south-western reaches of Sutherland.

...there is just something otherworldly about it.

The outlines of mountains and a valley at sunset. The sun shines bright above a layer of cloud. Sheep can be seen roaming a field in the distance. Assynt near Kylesku, Sutherland
Image provided by VisitScotland/Richard Elliot
Two puffins stare directly into the camera. The birds are perched on a rocky cliff face covered with a layer of green grass and daisies. Curious puffins on a cliff face.
Image provided by Carlo Zamagni

HANDA ISLAND

From Assynt, make your way northwards to Handa Island (Scottish Gaelic: Eilean Shannda). Currently managed by the Scottish Wildlife Trust, the island is renowned for its stunning views and as haven for nature and bird-watching enthusiasts. Each year as Spring gently ushers in across Sutherland, the dramatic Torridonian sandstone cliffs on the north face of Handa Island become home to tens of thousands of migrating seabirds.

Discover more about daring historical feats on Handa with in the story The Great Stack of Handa Island, from the Marg Greenwood Collection.

The Torridonian sandstone cliffs at the ocean coast of Handa drop precipitously into the sea. As I approached them I was almost deafened by the shrieks of thousands of seabirds crowding cliff ledges...

BALNAKEIL BEACH

Sutherland is renowned for its incredible beaches. The North West coast harbours a beach like no other - Balnakeil Beach. With its crescent-shaped, wide swathes of golden sands, lush green marram grass and shimmering waters, Balnakeil (Scottish Gaelic: Baile na Cille) is the perfect place to unwind and appreciate the beauty of nature.

In this recording, listen to Helen Avenell as she shares what she loves about the stunning Balnakeil Beach in North West Sutherland.

...you're looking out across the sea and really the next point of land is Canada. So, it's big wide horizons and big skies - it's beautiful.

A large stretch of yellow sand swathes northwards, meeting the green-blue waters of the sea in the top left of the image Balnakeil Beach, Sutherland
Image provided by VisitScotland/Richard Elliot
The entrance to a cave as seen from the inside. A small stream covered in rocks of varying sizes can be seen in the bottom half of the image. Two people can be seen at the entrance path to the cave. Smoo Cave, Sutherland
Image provided by Venture North

DURNESS

The spectacular village of Durness (Scottish Gaelic: Diùranais) is the most north westerly on the British mainland. Bounded by rocky shores, sandy beaches and the dramatic mountainous scenery of Sutherland, Durness forms a key part of the North West Highlands Geopark. With a range of unmissable attractions from Smoo Cave to the John Lennon Memorial Garden, Durness has a little something for everyone.

Join Sarah Marr in this recording as she reveals just why 'West is Best' and the draw of Durness and North West Sutherland.

...they're grounding because we were very fortunate in lockdown to be stuck in such a stunning place...

MELNESS

From Durness travel east to Talmine, situated in the locality of Taobh Mhealanais (English: Melness). Today, Taobh Mhealanais is comprised of a series of crofting townships west of Tongue Bay. In this recording, listen to Susanne MacDonald as she describes her bittersweet feelings for this beautiful area.

...I have very mixed feelings whenever I go back there...I have witnessed it myself declining over the years, where my 94 year old aunt is the last native Gaelic speaker of that little village...

Pale yellow sands of a beach meet the light blue waters of the sea on the right hand side of the image. In the background, a hill slopes down to the shoreline. A causeway leading to an island can also be seen in the distance. Talmine Bay, Sutherland
Image provided by Venture North
Loch Hope, Near Tongue flanked by a softly sloping green landscape. A winding road curves across the loch from the right and continues on to the left hand side of the loch. Loch Hope at Tongue, Sutherland
Image provided by Visit Scotland/Richard Elliot

TONGUE

For your next stop, make your way to Tongue (Scottish Gaelic: Tunga). This area was a historic crossroads for Gaels, Picts and Vikings and the area is named after an Old Norse term which refers to a piece of land shaped like a spit or, you guessed it, a tongue!

On top of its involvement in historical events such as the Skirmish at Tongue, oral tradition, storytelling, and folklore also play a key role in the cultural heritage of Sutherland. One such terrific tale is Lord Reay and his deal with the working fairies which would bring him closer to the woman he loved. Intrigued? Read the story here.

No matter the noise and curiosity man of Reay, never open the box I have given you until you are back with your master!

BETTYHILL

For your penultimate stop on this itinerary, travel 13 miles east to the picturesque village of Bettyhill (Scottish Gaelic: Am Blàran Odhar). Here, discover another piece of local folklore surrounding a monolith known as 'The Ringstone'. Just how did this standing stone get its distinctive name? Explore more with the Bettyhill community, who know the tale best, through a video project courtesy of Bettyhill Library. Watch the video story here

A large reddish brown boulder sitting on a grassy knoll The Ringstone, Sutherland
Image provided by Catriona MacLeod
In the foreground of the image gravestones, including two Celtic crosses, are visible. A large white building with a grey roof can be seen in the background, on the right hand side of the image. A low stone wall runs parallel to a line of trees on the left hand side of the image. Strathnaver Museum, Sutherland
Image provided by Museums and Heritage Highland

STRATHNAVAR MUSEUM

Finish your journey with a visit to Strathnavar Museum (Scottish Gaelic: Taigh-tasgaidh Shrath Nabhair). Based in the former Parish Church of Columba, Strathnavar Museum is the perfect place to discover 8,000 years of incredible stories - stories of love, loss and landscape - which form the very fabric of North-West Sutherland.

From the history of the land known as 'Mackay Country' to the tragedy of the Highland Clearances, Strathnavar Museum expertly provides a vessel for these stories to come together to give visitors a real insight into community heritage and Highland storytelling.

In this recording, learn about the history of the Highland Clearances in Sutherland and its continuing effect on the Highlands of today with Professor David Worthington - Head of the Centre for History, University of the Highlands and Islands.

...[It was] the wholesale destruction of these previously agricultural communities, inland communities in particular...

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Transport Driving
Duration Several days
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Destinations on this Itinerary

Lochinver Nature's playground. Add Lochinver to an itinerary
The outlines of mountains and a valley at sunset. The sun shines bright above a layer of cloud. Sheep can be seen roaming a field in the distance.
Assynt Viewpoint Admire a remarkable landscape immortalised in poetry. Add Assynt Viewpoint to an itinerary
Handa Island Wildlife Reserve Discover an area of outstanding natural heritage. Add Handa Island Wildlife Reserve to an itinerary
A large stretch of yellow sand swathes northwards, meeting the green-blue waters of the sea in the top left of the image
Balnakeil Beach Relax in nature on one of Sutherland's most spectacular beaches. Add Balnakeil Beach to an itinerary
Durness Escape to the most north westerly village in Scotland Add Durness to an itinerary
Talmine Visit an area of outstanding natural and cultural heritage in the Mealanais township. Add Talmine to an itinerary
A View Across The Kyle Of Tongue To Ben Loyal, Caithness. Wooden posts lead down a beach. Hill peaks line the landscape above the kyle, taking up 25% of the image
Tongue Centuries of history to discover in this former clan stronghold. Add Tongue to an itinerary
Bettyhill Discover incredible history, natural and cultural heritage all in one North Coast village. Add Bettyhill to an itinerary
Strathnaver Museum Journey from Strathnaver’s mystical past, through the emergence of the Clan Mackay, to the tragedy of the Highland Clearances. Add Strathnaver Museum to an itinerary

Stories

Favourite Places: Balnakeil Beach

"...it's big wide horizons and big skies - it's beautiful."

A large stretch of yellow sand swathes northwards, meeting the green-blue waters of the sea in the top left of the image

The Great Stack of Handa Island

Learn all about the awe-inspiring Great Stack of Handa Island

Favourite Places: Melness

"...I have very mixed feelings whenever I go back there...I have witnessed it myself declining over the years, where my 94 year old aunt is the last native Gaelic speaker of that little village..."

The Clearances

In this brief recording, learn about the history of the Highland Clearances in Sutherland and its continuing effect on the region and the Highlands of today.

The silhouette of Suilven appears in the top half of the image. Green shrubs covering a rocky landscape fill the bottom half of the image.

Favourite Places: Lochinver

"...there's just something really peaceful and beautiful about it, but savage..."

Looking Over To A Couple Walking On A Single Track Road By The Edge Of The River Inver Near Lochinver, With The Mountains Of The Quinag, Sutherland District

Favourite Places: Durness and the North West

"...they're grounding because we were very fortunate in lockdown to be stuck in such a stunning place..."

Favourite Places: Assynt

"...there is just something otherworldly about it."

The Ringstone

'Ring' it on? Discover how the distinctive Ringstone of Torrisdale got its name.

A large reddish brown boulder sitting on a grassy knoll

Lord Reay and the Working Fairies

Explore this intriguing folk tale featuring the Lord Reay and the working fairies of Gizzen Briggs.

Loch Hope, Near Tongue flanked by a softly sloping green landscape. A winding road curves across the loch from the right and continues on to the left hand side of the loch.