The spectacular village of Durness is the most north westerly on the British mainland. Bounded by rocky shores, sandy beaches and the dramatic mountainous scenery of Sutherland, Durness forms a key part of the North West Highlands Geopark. The village and the area that surrounds it are a haven for walkers of all levels with some of the most beautiful landscape features in the mainland Highlands. The sensational sand dunes abound by magnificent machair at Faraid Head, An Fharaird in Gaelic, are a wonder of nature and a favourite walking route for visitors. The scenic value of the peninsula, together with those at Oldshoremore and Cape Wrath, are recognised as a Special Landscape Area.
A mile to the east of Durness lies a curious complex of caves set into limestone cliffs with a fascinating history. At 50ft high, the impressive Smoo Cave boasts one of the largest entrances to any natural sea cave in Britain. Its beauty and mystery have inspired many myths and legends throughout history, and it is not hard to see why. From its stunning waterfall, the floodlit chamber, to the roar of the crashing seas, visitors today are still frequently enraptured by the immense atmosphere of the cave.
History at Every Turn
It doesn’t take long for visitors to Durness to get a sense of the spirit of the village through its vast history. Durness and its environs have been inhabited since the Neolithic, with evidence of thousands of years of human activity at Smoo, Glassknapper’s, Antler and Wetweather Caves. The position of the nearby Loch Eriboll served as a port of call for the Viking fleet of King Haakon of Norway en route to the Battle of Largs – a battle which would lead to the end of Viking rule in Scotland. Fast forward over 600 years later, the loch would also see the surrender of 33 German U-boats resulting in the end of the Battle of the Atlantic.
Just a stone’s throw away at Ceannabeinne, translated as the ‘end of the mountains’, discover the moving story of an abandoned village and the incredible history behind the 19th century Durness Riots – heroic acts of local resistance to the appalling acts of the Highland Clearances.
The parish of Durness was also the birthplace and burial place of 18th century poet Rob Donn. Known as ‘brown-haired Rob’ and the ‘Reay Gaelic Bard’, Donn’s works are still highly regarded in Gaelic literature. Two centuries later, famous Beatle John Lennon frequented Durness from the age of 9 on family holidays to Sangomore. He would return to visit the village in 1969 with his wife Yoko Ono and their son Julian and Ono’s daughter, Kyoko. Created in his memory, the John Lennon Memorial Garden, in the grounds of Durness Village Hall, are a perfect spot to unwind surrounded by nature.
